What a Mess

So, sorry I've been gone for a few days.  Valentine's day plans and whatnot have taken up quite a bit of time.  I like to do it up, as it were.  Anyway, I noticed I neglected to mention one piece of evening wear in my black tie essay: The White Mess Jacket.  

Now, the civilian mess jacket (it is still worn in the military) was only really "in style" for less than ten years, there aren't really any rules for it.  It is most often seen with a cummerbund, but a low cut black vest is also correct.  Turndown collars are the norm, but wing collars work too.  I've seen them with peaked and shawl lapels (never notch) and usually self-faced (as opposed to silk/satin faced).  Either plain gold or self-faced buttons are fine.  It is a very natty look if you can pull it off, but there are a few caveats.  First off, do not try if you are of less-than-athletic build, it won't flatter you.  Second, there is the ever-present risk of looking like a waiter.  But, now that you've been warned, I'll move on to how you may acquire a mess jacket of your own.




First off, custom made.  Obviously terribly expensive, but will get it fitting right.


Second off, find a military one.  You can find them new, but fairly expensive, or try trawling ebay to find a vintage one cheaper.  However, beware as fit is everything so, if it doesn't fit right, it won't look good.  If you happen to find one, get a tailor to change out the buttons if needed and remove the epaulet loops on the shoulders.


Third off (and least advised): Find a cheap ivory/off white tailcoat and have a tailor remove the tails.  Beware satin faced lapels and stiff polyester material like the plague.

My own, former military mess jacket.