I'm putting on my top hat...

So, this little essay will probably be fairly lost on most people because, well, no one wears white tie and tails anymore.  But I figured I'd write it anyway because it's 1 AM and I'm bored.  White tie and tails (aka White tie or Full Dress) is the closest thing to a civilian uniform there is, which turns most people off to it.  However, there is plenty of variety to be had when wearing white tie as well (provided you do it right).  But, doing it differently can get pretty expensive too.  Either way, I'll show you some of the does and do-nots of tails.


The Tailcoat
The tailcoat should have the appearance of being double breasted, but should not be able to close.  You'll see some tailcoats out there with one button that closes in the center; this is for waitstaff or fancy dress only.  Do not wear this to a white tie function.  Also, it should be black or midnight blue ONLY (sound familiar) and the pants should match.  Also, matching cloth covered buttons are a must.  There are two types of lapels appropriate for the formal tailcoat.  Some sartorialists will be confused here; most would say that only peaked lapels belong on the tailcoat, and I think they're MOSTLY right.  However, the other option I would endorse (albeit, with caution) is the M or Claw-hammer Lapel.

Of course, this will require a custom tail-suit (as will most variation on the coat itself).  Another variation is lapel facings.  Of course, black grosgrain silk is the norm, and is quite dashing, but a self-trimmed lapel is equally so.

Note both men's coats are self trimmed (be sure to avoid the velvet collar and purple waistcoat of Mr. Downey, though.)
Last, but not least, is the general cut of the coat.  Most are used to the average, formal tailcoat as being uniform across the board.  Not true.  For instance, most tailcoats are cut with a slanted front hem (to follow the lines of the vest).

However, a straight hem is equally acceptable and looks great if worn with a straight hemmed waistcoat (as well as with the standard, pointed type.

This also opens a door to the button placement.  Most tailcoats have a keystone button placement, where they slant up, toward the shoulders, but a straight hem allows a shorter lapel and a straight button configuration.

(This also shows a rare lapel style; a shawl lapel over the peaked lapel.  Not my style, but definitely interesting.)




The Waistcoat/Vest
Let me say this immediately.  With white tie, you MUST wear a vest.  No cummerbund or anything else.  Furthermore, it should be some shade of white/off white.  SOME say that since a black waistcoat was fine in the Victorian age, it's fine now.  They may be right but, to me, it doesn't look half as good as white.  But, that's my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt.  However, the vest is where you can take the most liberty for expression.  The rules to the vest are:
A. It must be white/off white/cream
B. It must be low-cut (three buttons, four if double-breasted) and have lapels
C. It must not extend below the front of the tailcoat.
Otherwise, all is fair game.  The most common is the white, backless, pique waistcoat.

While this is certainly fine, and very handsome, there is so much more that can be done.  For instance, a straight hemmed, shawl lapel waistcoat

Or the double breasted waistcoat (straight or pointed hem)

And, of course, off-white/cream brocade vests as seen on the above picture of Jude Law and Robert Downey Jr.  Also, a watch chain will not go amiss.


The Shirt
You have a few alternatives here, really.  First off, the shirt should have a detachable collar, barrel cuffs for cufflinks, and a stif front.  It must be white.  The front can be either a "boiled front" or pique front.  If you really push it, you MAY get away with a well starched, thinly pleated front.  The front should have holes for studs (mother of pearl or plain white).  As for collars, you have three available.  The wing collar

The rounded wing.

Or the tall stand/imperial collar

Of course, the shirt should be laundered and starched to perfection.




The Pants/Trousers
Relatively identical to tuxedo pants.  High rise, color to match the coat, silk stripe down the leg, no cuffs.  Wear with suspenders.  Plain front is better, pleats are fine.


Tie
White, pique, self-tie bow tie.  If your vest is brocade, you can probably get away with a matching tie.


Shoes
Patent leather opera pumps or highly polished Chelsea boots.  Some may argue the Chelsea boots, but I like them personally.


Hats
Highly polished top hat or silk collapsible top hat.

So, on the off chance you happen to get to wear white tie and tails, now you know how, or at least have an inkling of it.  Goodnight all, I have some homework to catch up with.