Two bits

So, it's late again and I can't get to sleep yet (seems I never get to sleep before 4 anymore) so I figured I'd give some more details on vintage shaving (or, at least, how I do it) for those out there who want to give it a try.  Ladies, this may be helpful for you too.




First off, I'll skip straight razor technique for now because, well, I'd guess very few of you reading will be crazy enough to give it a try (or be willing to shell out the cash for a good razor, sheesh).  This will have more to do with the old fashioned, double edged razors.  I picked up mine (It's a vintage Gillette) at an antique shop for about $25, took it home, scrubbed it with a brillo pad (it's brass and copper so there was some oxidation), and sanitized it in alcohol.  Brand new ones can be found for anywhere from $30 to $50 online.  Most of them are pretty simple in design with three pieces.  First, there's the rounded bit that actually makes contact with the skin.  This usually has a threaded bolt in the middle.  












Next is a flat bit with a hole in it that slides on over the bolt.  The blade gets sandwiched between these two parts.  














Last is the handle, which screws onto the bolt.










And, voila, a simple razor.  Now, first off, since this is a mostly bare blade, it is a little easier to cut yourself and takes a BIT more time than a modern razor.  For me, it takes about 5 minutes per pass (i.e. 5 min to go just with the grain, 10 if I want to go with, then against).  However, it gives a much closer shave, when done right.  Also, the blades are dirt cheap, unlike cartridge razors.  So, now that we've figured that out, let's get started.


At this point, you need a brush and some shaving soap.  The soap can be had at any pharmacy (CVS, Rite Aid, Walgreen's etc.) or even Walmart, Kmart, and Target.  I'd suggest investing in a decent brush, though.  I like badger hair, personally.  To lather up the soap, first run warm water over the brush.  The brush will soak up some water in the process.  Next, make small circles over the soap with the brush, applying a little pressure.  This should give you a decent lather pretty quickly.  Next, apply the lather to your face in small circles.  This makes the hair stand, making it easier to cut (applying normal, canned cream with your hands doesn't do this).  If you want, you can precede all of this with a hot towel on your face to soften it, but it is hardly necessary.


Once you're lathered up, it's time to start shaving.  what you want to do for the first few times is lay the rounded part flat on your skin, then slowly rock it until the blade touches your skin.  With time, you will be able to intuitively touch the blade edge to your face without this.  It will feel strange at first because the handle is at a near 90 degree angle to your face, but you will get used to it.  Now, for those of you that don't know the grains of your face, here are some tips (may vary, everyone's face is different).


With the grain:
Cheeks: down and inward
Chin: down and outward
Moustache: straight down center, angled down sides
Neck: down


Against the grain is all exactly the opposite.  Alternatively, there is across the grain (aka X grain), which will give a closer shave, but is much harder and will often result in lots of cuts.  NEVER start with X grain or against the grain, always start with the grain.  Not doing so will result in severe irritation and, often, nicks.


Now, once you've finished, splash some cold water on your face (or, submerge it in a sink full of cold water if you have the time or patience).  This will close up the pores on your face, preventing infection, ingrown hairs, and razor bumps.  Clean up any nicks with a styptic pen (any pharmacy will have it) and apply your aftershave of choice (I recommend Old Spice and Pinaud's Clubman for cheap, classic aftershaves that smell great).


That should just about do it, I think.  Any questions, feel free to comment below.  Thanks for reading.